Welcome to McGrew Studio, Salt Lake City UT home of Salt Lake Tightlacer, Mel B Jones Jewelry, Utah artists and designers, custom costumes, costume design, unique fashions, fashion stroll, gallery stroll, custom corsets and fetish clothing, wearable art, steampunk jewelry and accessories, Salt Lake Slipcover slip covers & designer workroom services

All about the

Right:
A model from W Talent Management, during a fitting in a two-tone custom corset with a sweet retro cherries print and wide wale curdoroy.

Below:
Amber gets laced up in her new custom corset by her sis, Brooke.

When you visit the studio, you are invited to look through a big collection, if you wish, of costume and corset history books, and you are invited to try on sample corsets in your size.

When you place a custom order, we take a specific set of your measurements, then create some sketches indicating further measurements and details, and ask you a set of questions about shapes, colors, fabric combinations, silhouettes, necklines, and whether you'd prefer a gold or silver busk, grommets, or other hardware.

Feel welcome to bring in any costumes or corsets you already own so you can show us what works and what doesn't. You'll usually need one or two fittings when you have us build you a new one.

We will ask if you're left or right handed and show you why this is helpful. If your new corset is going to be worn in a dance or performance (such as a burlesque performance), I'll ask you if it needs any quick-release features so you can get out of your corset quickly and gracefully.

Above:
A special corset in progress. The outer layer is an ornate satin in the style of an Indian sari fabric. We've carefully cut it so the gradient color progression in dark blue starts at the bottom and fades up into the beautiful Aegean green at top.

Left:
...the beautiful bride on her special day.

We also custom made her skirt to go with the corset.

It's layered gold satin underneath with an overskirt of gold netting that sparkles.

Above:
Lorrie, during a custom fitting.

Above:
The icon, Lorrie, who started it all for Salt Lake City's premiere burlesque phenoms,
the Slippery Kittens.
Audition Announcement:
Back cover of SLUG Magazine, July 2006
courtesy of SLUG

*Below:* The ol' 'knee in the back' image is for comic effect only. It's been showcased in many cartoons and famous film moments over the years, but isn't really the best way to get lacing leverage. Let us show you how to do it better. Your custom fitting includes instructions about how to put on, take off, and care for your new corset. If you bring a friend, We will show both of you how to lace it up.

Below:
Cydney, during a custom fitting.

This 18th century-style corset is in a partially-completed stage. At this point in a fitting, the corset has its steel busk, boning, or other fastening hardware in the center front and the grommets installed directly through steel stays in the back. The top and bottom fabric edges are raw and unfinished. Normally, we begin building your corset out of your actual fabrics, stopping short of completing all its casings, so it's in this partially-completed form when you come for a fitting.

Because the corset is still alterable in this stage it allows me to take in seams (usually at the waist) and taper others slightly (usually at the hip and abdomen) so it fits you properly, hugging you. You get the maximum flattery and figure control out of the corset's surface area.

I also make sure it's cut low enough under your arms so it doesn't rub or chafe there. I ask you to sit down in a chair to determine whether we need to alter the shape directly over the crease of your thigh. You'll get more tummy control when the corset is cut lower over your abdomen and hip because of the increased surface area that acts as a container for your torso. In most cases, you'll want to be able to sit down comfortably. If you have the exact opposite idea in mind, then you need to tell me!

Above:
more pictures of a partially-constructed corset, ready for its fitting.

When the client came for her fitting, I cut the under-arm areas a bit lower and cut the area right above the thigh crease a bit higher, plus checked and adjusted some seams that needed to taper in further. (Inquiring minds wanted to know about this corset- yes, it DOES have a front busk, but it's covered by a clever placket with petite chinese frog closures over it. The client found this beautiful green brocade fabric and these cute frog closures on a trip to Portland, Oregon, and the finished corset will forever be her reminder of that vacation).

Depending on your fitting needs and the complexity of what we're building for you, I may have a sample in a suitable size for you to try on during your first visit. If not, I'll often create a toille or mock-up corset for you, made especially for fitting purposes, and schedule you for a second visit.

Usually, I'll have a slip for you to wear when we are doing an intermediate or final fitting. It's also helpful if you can bring one of your own. We don't want bulky clothing in the way.

You are welcome to any fabrics we have in stock. If you don't see some you like, I can help you locate the fabric of your dreams, or we will send you shopping.

If you shop for your own fabric, you'll usually need to purchase 3/4 yard to 1 yard for most corset projects.

I can figure your yardage after we take measurements and do some sketching.

Usually, the only fabrics you'll need buy are those that show on the outside of your new corset.

The studio provides all the sturdy inerlining fabrics, steel stays, grommets, lacing, etc.

Above:
Jamie is thrilled about her new 1000 roses corset!

Left:
more pictures of a partially-constructed corset, ready for its fitting.

The stay casings for this one were then sewn onto the outside of the corset. The closures down the front are swivel studs with holes drilled through, so the client can put small padlocks through them.

Once we're ready to get started in your actual fabric, you place a deposit (usually half the total) before we begin construction. You can also spread out your payments with a layaway.

Your new corset can be ready for you to take home and enjoy in about a week or two, depending on how many orders are ahead of yours.

It's fun to get laced up! You might even get your picture taken... maybe in a leather cincher.

Above: Julie in a dramatic black and white custom cincher. It's cut so the repeating ornate pattern matches perfectly at every seam.

Above: Becky works on a custom overbust, in process.

On this one, she has painstakingly quilted the black fabrics,
plus she's quilted the black lace overlay onto the green satin underneath.
These details add structure, strength and make your new item a collectible one-of-a-kind statement you'll wear with pleasure and cherish forever.



Remember, your body is unique, and a corset is a clothing item that does *not* stretch. It's made from at least 2-3 layers of fabric and your outer fabric is stabilized by an inter-or underlining of tightly woven fabric such as coutil, twill or other tough material, depending on the style and purpose of your finished item. Sometimes you'll even have an inner "waistband" of petersham, an incredibly strong woven product that takes more strain off the seams. When it's true waist training you're after, we add this feature for extra control and extra resilience against wear and tear. Depending on the size, style, and purpose of your corset, it will contain at least 16 or more spring steel and/or spiral steel stays, inserted into special casings. We advise you never to purchase a premade corset from any website or retail vendor unless you've tried it on first.

Hope this has been informative!

When you're ready to custom order, just give us a call and we'll set you on your way to that perfect custom costume, corset, gown or other specialty item. Thanks!

Read on for more about the custom costume process....

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